How to cook duck magret.

       Since coming to France, we've become huge gluttons for magret de canard, the huge duck breasts that are a delicious by-product of the ducks raised for foie gras.
       In the summer, you can grill magrets outdoors. This time of year, I pan-fry them, scoring their fat first in a criss-cross pattern, and seasoning it with salt and pepper. Into a hot frypan, skin side down. After about six minutes, the magret will have released buckets of melted fat. Pour it off into a jar or, even easier, siphon it off with a turkey baster. Turn the magret over, cover the pan and let it keep cooking for another couple of minutes. About eight minutes in total gives you medium-rare results.
      Move it to a warm plate, and tent it with foil, then carve in thick slices. We find one magret is enough for the two of us. Trust me, it's better than steak.
     Magret is fantastic with sliced par-boiled potatoes fried in duck fat, or with a gutsily-dressed salad of roquette or frisée, with hunks of baguette as the starch component.
      The other night I cooked Puy lentils for 25 minutes, then mixed in chopped onion, garlic, carrot and celery that I'd sautéed till soft in butter.

     The sauce on the side is simply some homemade plum chutney warmed up in a pan. You need something to balance the richness of the duck.

The Friday Night Market in Léran

People swarm into Léran any July or August Friday. If you live here, you don't plan on doing anything else. I'm talking about the marché gourmand, also known as the marché nocturne. A barrier stops traffic from entering the main street. Beyond it are people at stalls and tables selling all you need to put supper together.

Think of it as one enormous communal dinner party. Long tables covered with paper cloths run the end of the street. Everyone grabs a green-painted metal folding chair and squeezes in beside their neighbours and friends. I've never counted heads but easily over a hundred sit down and break bread together. (The village boulangerie brings baguettes and fougasses including a Roquefort version). A local wine-maker opens bottles of red or rosé--it's not sold by the glass--but when the price is four euros a bottle...

Tonight, not for the first time, we line up for strips of grilled magret (duck breast) cooked over charcoal, and frites. On top goes a big spoonful of persillade--garlic and parsley chopped together--pungent enough to make your eyes water. If you want to make it yourself, try equal proportions.