Low temperatures mean snow on the mountains. On this crystal-clear morning, the contrast was extraordinary between the razor-sharp Pyrenees and the soft Harris tweed colours of the fields and forests.
In the halles at Lavelanet market, local producers now sell lots of winter crops. I found these utterly gorgeous cabbages, parsnips--which you don't often see in France--and two baskets of medlars which I've never seen for sale anywhere before. In hindsight I should have bought them, so I could let them ripen from now till Christmas.